Agave is a plant. Agave refers to the scientific name for the plant. And Maguey is the common name that is used in the community and by the producer.
I understand them as a one-to-many relationship, agave to maguey. The former determines biological commonality—same classification. The latter represents 1. specific natural conditions like climate and soil, which may affect flavor, 2. culture(history e.g.).
That’s why in NOMs, only Agave is marked, not maguey.
Definition of Bacanora in NOM-168-SCFI-2005:
Bebida alcohólica regional del Estado de Sonora, México, obtenida por destilación y rectificación de mostos, preparados directa y originalmente con los azúcares extraídos de la molienda de las cabezas maduras de Agave angustifolia Haw, hidrolizadas por cocimiento, y sometidas a fermentación alcohólica con levaduras. El bacanora es un líquido que, de acuerdo a su tipo, es incoloro o amarillento cuando es madurado en recipientes de madera de roble o encino, o cuando se aboque sin madurarlo.
(Google translated) Bacanora is a regional alcoholic beverage from the state of Sonora, Mexico, obtained by distillation and rectification of musts, originally prepared directly with sugars extracted from the milling of mature Agave angustifolia Haw hearts, hydrolyzed by cooking, and subjected to alcoholic fermentation with yeasts. Depending on its type, bacanora is a colorless or yellowish liquid when aged in oak or holm oak wooden containers, or when bottled without aging.
Bacanora uses Agave angustifolia, which in mezcal DO, its maguey is called Espadin. In Sonora, where Bacanora is produced, two maguey types of Agave angustifolia are used: Pacifica and Yaquiana
I argue, like Agave tequilana (Blue agave), growth cycle is the deciding factor.
When reviewing NOMs for the (Agave) Spirits, one thing for me pretty interesting is that Raicilla has its DO, and NOM which is under-processing. However Raicilla could label itself as Raicilla like others do. So what is NOM for.
I reflected: What is DO, what is NOM—aren’t they both laws? What’s the relationship between them? Why can Raicilla label itself as Raicilla? Tequila and Mezcal NOMs have references to Labeling regulations. Why can Raicilla? What exactly is DO, what exactly is NOM!
DO is defined at Article 264 of the Federal Law for the Protection of Industrial Property (New Law DOF 01-07-2020)
(Original Text)Se entiende por denominación de origen, el producto vinculado a una zona geográfica de la cual éste es originario, siempre y cuando su calidad, características o reputación se deban exclusiva o esencialmente al origen geográfico de las materias primas, los procesos de producción, así como los factores naturales y culturales que inciden en el mismo.
(Google translated)A denominacion of origin refers to a product linked to a geographical area from which it originates, provided that its quality, characteristics or reputation are due exclusively or essentially to the geographical origin of the raw materials, the production processes, as well as the natural and cultural factors that affect it.
From here, we get DO. The second paragraph of Article 264 states:
Once a declaration of protection for a designation of origin has been issued, it must have a specific Official Mexican Standard.
Why do we need NOM? What is NOM?
This is legal territory, so first a quick look at Mexico’s legal structure.
Layer 1: Constitution
├─ 1917 Political Constitution
├─ Article 133 (Legal hierarchy)
└─ Article 28 (Monopolies and patent rights)
Layer 2: International Treaties
├─ Lisbon Agreement (DO international protection)
└─ USMCA (US-Mexico-Canada Agreement)
Layer 3: Federal Laws
├─ Federal Law for the Protection of Industrial Property 2020
│ └─ Articles 264-300 (DO specific provisions)
├─ Federal Law on Metrology and Standardization
└─ Federal Consumer Protection Law
Layer 4: Administrative Layer
├─ Administrative Declarations
│ └─ 1977 Tequila DOT Declaration
│ (Published in DOF)
│
├─ Technical Standards (NOM)
│ ├─ NOM-006-SCFI-2012
│ │ (Tequila product standard)
│ ├─ NOM-030-SCFI-2006
│ │ (Label quantity declaration)
│ ├─ NOM-142-SSA1-1995
│ │ (Alcoholic beverage health standard)
│ └─ NOM-251-SSA1-2009
│ (Food hygiene operating practices)
│
└─ Implementation Rules
└─ Various operating procedures and guidelines
Layer 5: Enforcement Layer
├─ IMPI Authorization (production authorization, DO use authorization)
├─ CRT Certification (compliance certificates)
└─ Market SupervisionFrom legal hierarchy: Article 264 of Federal Law for the Protection of Industrial Property = Superior law (legal framework) Tequila DOT Declaration (1977) = Administrative declaration (legal protection) NOM-006-SCFI-2012 = Technical standard (implementation rules)
Using Tequila as example, the logical chain breaks down to:
Article 264
↓
Defines what is "designation of origin"
↓
Requires "specific NOM"
↓
Tequila DOT Declaration (1977)
↓
Requires technical standard NOM
↓
NOM-006-SCFI-2012 (Tequila production, labeling, quality standards)From above I know within Mexico I must respect each DO. I’m not in Mexico. Why should I accept you’re Bacanora? Why can’t I produce Bacanora? Who can stop me!
Example: Lisbon Agreement—country of origin registration → WIPO international registration → all member states automatically recognize
Mexico ⇄ USA
│ │
Recognizes "Bourbon" as Recognizes "Tequila" as
US exclusive product Mexico exclusive product
│ │
└────────── Bilateral Agreement ────────────┘
(1973-1974)Case: Mexico-USA (1973-1974) url
| Mexico grants USA | USA grants Mexico |
|---|---|
| Recognizes “Bourbon Whiskey” exclusive to USA | Recognizes “Tequila” exclusive to Mexico |
| Prohibits Mexico from producing “Bourbon” | Prohibits USA from producing “Tequila” |
Timeline:
December 5, 1973 → USA Federal Register publishes recognition of Tequila DO
May 6, 1974 → Mexico publishes resolution recognizing Bourbon WhiskeyExample: EU PDO/PGI system—unified internal standards, negotiates as whole externally. Like Champagne, Prosciutto di Parma, Manchego cheese.
So Mexico’s DO protection mechanism is a three-layer legal framework, progressing from international law to domestic law to administrative enforcement.
┌─────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Layer 1: International Law │
├─────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ • Lisbon Agreement (international treaty) │
│ • TRIPS Agreement (WTO framework) │
│ • Bilateral/multilateral trade agreements │
│ ──────────────────────────────────── │
│ Legal nature: Public international law │
└─────────────────────────────────────────────┘
↓
┌───────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Layer 2: Domestic Law │
├───────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ • National DO protection laws │
│ • Mexico: Federal Law for the Protection of Industrial Property │
│ • France: AOC law │
│ • EU: PDO/PGI regulations │
│ ─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────│
│ Legal nature: Domestic legislation │
└───────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
↓
┌─────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Layer 3: Administrative Enforcement │
├─────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ • DO protection declarations │
│ • Technical standards │
│ • Certification systems │
│ ───────────────────────────────────────────────│
│ Legal nature: Administrative regulations │
└─────────────────────────────────────────────────┘DO is sexy. heterogeneity and homogeneity, globalization, money, culture, justice etc. Much praise, criticism and debate arises from this.
But cheers, friend.
My exploration pauses here. For Raicilla labeling, I still have no conclusion—this requires careful examination of Mexican law. But one phenomenon worth noting: Unlike Mezcal, Bacanora, Tequila DOs, besides authorized regions, Raicilla’s DO involves production standards and other details which for the other spirits are written in their NOMs.
Perhaps that’s the reason.
NOMs until year 2025
[NOM tequila]: NOM-006-SCFI-2012. Updated from NOM-006-SCFI-2005, NOM-006-SCFI-1994, NOM-006-SCFI-1993
[NOM Mezcal]:NOM-070-SCFI-2016. Updated from NOM-070-SCFI-1994
[NOM Bacanora]: NOM-168-SCFI-2004
[NOM Sotol]: NOM-159-SCFI-2004
Finally, we return to Bacanora.
From article: 77 Years Outlawed, Sonora’s Rebel Spirit Lives: Bacanora—Spirit of Sonora’s Desert
In 1915, the governor of Sonora, Plutarco Elías Calles (who later became president of Mexico), declared war on local distillers. He saw homemade spirits as backward, unregulated, and a threat to modernization. Officially, it was about control and taxation; unofficially, it was about consolidating power.
The punishment was severe: fines, destruction of stills, and even imprisonment. Local legend claims some producers were forced to smash their copper stills under government orders. Yet in the Sierra Madre and the rugged desert valleys, people adapted. They hid their stills in caves, roasted agave under camouflage, and used mule paths to transport their contraband.
For comparison: U.S. Prohibition lasted 13 years (1920–1933). Bacanora’s prohibition lasted 77 years. That makes it one of the most extended alcohol bans in modern history—and one of the most successfully defied.
When legalization finally came in 1992, it was less about permission and more about recognition of what had already endured. Bacanora hadn’t just survived the ban; it had become a badge of Sonoran identity—fiery, proud, and impossible to erase.
Paper: BACANORA INDUSTRY AND ITS PROCESS OF PRODUCTION
However, with the introduction of distillation technique by Spanish missionaries in the 16th century, fermented beverages were replaced by agave distillates, which since then have evolved into different products, highlighting among them tequila, mezcal and bacanora (Mc Vaugh, 1989)
In this quote we see that back then, Bacanora could even stand alongside Tequila and Mezcal as a product, discussed together. But today if you’re not a nerd, you might not even know Bacanora.
The 77-year ban caused Bacanora industry to lose the opportunity to develop alongside Tequila. Sonora sits right on the US border. Before the 1915 ban, Bacanora was a popular drink in the American Southwest.
Historical evidence shows that despite attempts to eradicate this activity over three hundred years, its persistence stems not only from economic factors but from its role in the most deeply rooted cultural and traditional practices of Sonora’s mountain population. La industria del bacanora: historia y tradición de resistencia en la sierra sonorense.
Authority will ever win. Cheers, friend.
My experience: very herbs, cement. Like a green sward, stabbing towards the throat.